Materials needed:
50 inches of 1/8”
parachute cord.
Colors are: Desert
tan, Gray (Navy) and Olive Green–Drab (Army, Marines)
#72 opaque pony beads.
Colors are: Brown
(Desert use), Blue (Navy) and Black (Army, Marines.)
Flat toothpicks, lighter
for sealing, scissors and masking tape.
Wrapping tool and
spacing tool.
Container to
keep parts in.
Step 1:
Seal the Cord
The
first step is to seal the ends of the cord. This
cord is so slick that it is difficult to seal. Cut
the tape on an angle with the length of tape about
the width of the tape. Place ½ of the small end of a
toothpick on top of the cord. Place the tape on the
pick and roll it into place twirling it until it is
as small as you can get it. Both ends will need to
be sealed.
The
2 turn knot
lThis
shows the wrapping tool and where the bead
is held with the cord almost against the
bead. The cord will be inserted from the
thumb outward with no twists.
lThe
cord is inserted in the tool slot;
wrap the cord clockwise crossing the
cord to form an X. The cord is
wrapped a second time back toward
the thumb making sure there are no
twists; the 2 turns should be side
by side. Insert the cord under the 2
turns from the thumb side and pull
it through making sure there are no
twists. Using the thumb and
forefinger and while pulling on the
cord carefully work the knot to
where it is close the the bead or at
the bead; tighten. The 3 turn knot
is made the same way with 3 turns.
lThe
cord is inserted in the tool
slot; wrap the cord
clockwise crossing the cord
to form an X. The cord is
wrapped a second time back
toward the thumb making sure
there are no twists; the 2
turns should be side by
side. Insert the cord under
the 2 turns from the thumb
side and pull it through
making sure there are no
twists. Using the thumb and
forefinger and while pulling
on the cord carefully work
the knot to where it is
close the the bead or at the
bead; tighten. The 3 turn
knot is made the same way
with 3 turns.
Step 2: The start
knot
Using the smallest of
the sealed ends, measure
from the end of cord 7”
(the knotting tool is 5
½” and the width is 1
1/2”.) With your thumb
on the tool over the
groove and the cord in
the groove, make a 2
turn knot. Put the cord
between your fingers
bringing the cord to the
other end to keep it
from twisting. Insert
under the turns making
sure it is not twisted.
Pull off the tool. Keep
the knot next to your
thumb and tighten.
Step 3: The Decades
lPlace
10 beads on
the long
cord, (I
grab a
handful of
beads in my
hand and
spear them
with the
pick; 5 at a
time.) With
the last
bead under
your thumb
and on the
tool, make a
2 turn wrap
as close to
the bead as
possible.
insert the
cord under
the turns
without
twisting.
Pull off the
tool and
work the
knot smaller
and place it
in the
spacer tool
and tighten.
I wrap the
cord around
my fingers
to get more
leverage.
The
Decade
Knot
lThis shows the knot after one of the decades and before tightening. Note the knot sitting atop the block. Wrap the cord around your hand and hold the bead against the block with the other and tighten. The knot will fall into the space between the 2 blocks, giving you the correct spacing.
Step 4: The Our Father
lPlace an our Father bead against the knot and as in step 3, make a 2 turn knot as close to the bead as possible. When you remove it from the tool, work the knot all the way against the bead and tighten; you will not use the spacer tool in this step.
lContinue with step 3 and 4 until you have 5 decades and 4 our Father's. You will make a 2 turn knot after the last decade.
3 Turn knot
lThis shows the 3 turn knot before removal from the tool. It is important to have the turns as close as possible to the bead. It will make it easier to work the knot tight against the bead.
Center Knot
lThe three turn knot is made the same way as the 2 turn knot except one more turn is added. It is important to make the center knot as close to the our Father bead as you can and to keep the bead against the top two knots. This knot must be as tight as you can get it to prevent slippage. Test it to see if it slips. If it does, pull the long cord to bring the top knot down and tighten again. If the 2 cords are away from the bead, untie and redo the center knot.
Step 5: The Center
lPlace an our Father bead on the 2 cords, one at a time (it may be tight and you may need to work the bead on.) Bring the bead all the way against the 2 knots. Use the short cord to make a 3 turn wrap against the bead. While holding the bead and 2 knots, work the 3 turn knot up against the bead pulling on the short cord to tighten. You may need to pull on the long cord also. Tighten as tight as you can.
Step 6: Finishing Up
lPlace the 3 Hail Mary's and make a knot. Space it on the tool as shown. (This shows the knot after tightening.)
The Crucifix Knot
lThe Crucifix knot showing the 3 turns and before removal from the tool. Once removed, the cord is pulled while working the knot back towards the our Father bead and tightened. The scissors is placed between the 2 cords on top of the Crucifix to protect it while tightening.
lThe Crucifix is made the same way as the center knot, but you hold the Crucifix under your thumb. Try to get it as close as possible to the bead. Insert the edge of the scissors between the two cords so the Crucifix is resting against the scissors. This protects the Crucifix from breaking while you tighten the knot.
Step 8: Sealing the ends
lBefore sealing, make sure the Rosary looks good and there is no slippage. If not, take apart what needs corrected.
lIf okay, cut the cords leaving about ½”.
lBurn the ends with the lighter to seal and keep from fraying.
lIf in doubt, have the coordinator check it before cutting.
Completed Ranger Rosary
